For some reason best left to the gods to fight over the naming convention for the USB serial device has changed breaking the functionality of Processing under linux with regard to Arduino Uno.

Previously when an Arduino was attached to a USB port the system would identify it as a standard serial port and call it /dev/ttyUSB[i]n[/i] where n is a number (for example /dev/ttyUSB0). Now the serial port is identified as /dev/ttyACM[i]n[/i] (for example /dev/ttyACM0) which Processing does not recognise as a valid serial port and the command Arduino.list() fails to return it.

The Processing dev team are aware of the issue and have fixed it in the next release but that does not help us.

There are two ways of dealing with this problem, a simple way and a difficult way:

Simple: rename the USB serial ports
Pros: easy
Cons: you need to monitor the /dev/ directory for new devices
Method: run a script that polls /dev/ and watches for /dev/ACM* creation or removal and link or unlink /dev/ttyS8* devices

Difficult: Fix the code in Processing
Pros: When it is fixed it is fixed
Cons: time consuming
Method: You would need to unpack the .jar file, find the code that enumerates serial ports and add /dev/ttyACM* as a recognised device and then repack the .jar file. I will look into this and amend this post at some point.

Here is a simple bash script to fix the issue the simple way, install it as a root cron job to run @REBOOT
#!/bin/bash
# Check if Arduino virtual serial ports exist or have been removed
# Fix for Processing Arduino enumeration issue
# Automatically creates or removes a serial port at /dev/ttyS80 and above if an Arduino is plugged in via usb
# Assuming Arduino is /dev/ttyACM6 new serial port will be /dev/ttyS86, /dev/ttyACM0 will be /dev/ttyS80 etc
# Basically, add 80 to the ttyACM{n} to give you ttyS8{n}
#
# Written by and for http://labby.co.uk/2012/02/setting-up-processing-under-ubuntu-devttyacm0-devttyusb0-fix

while true; do # run forever
for i in {0..9}; do
if [ -c /dev/ttyACM$i ]; then # check if /dev/ttyACM$i exists and is a character file
if [ ! -e /dev/ttyS8$i ]; then # check if /dev/ttyS8$i does not exist
ln -s /dev/ttyACM$i /dev/ttyS8$i # it does not exist, create a symbolic link to /dev/ttyACM$i
fi
else
if [ -e /dev/ttyS8$i ]; then # check if /dev/ttyS8$i exists
rm /dev/ttyS8$i # it does and it should not exist - someone unplugged the arduino?
fi
fi
done
sleep 1 # wait a second before starting checking again
done


When this script runs it automatically creates or removes a serial port at /dev/ttyS80 and above if an Arduino is plugged in via usb

I would like to document my experiences as well as what I have gleaned from it.

Main notes:
The IR receiver needs to have a connection to +5v, gnd and the output goes to digital pin 11 (hardcoded into the library).
With my particular IR receiver it looks like this:

I found that the IR transmitter needs to be amplified to allow the equipment to detect the IR signal, I am using a bc547.
My amplifier circuit looks like this:

arduino digital pin 3 — 120 ohm resistor — bc547 pin 2 (base)
bc547 pin 1 (collector) — IR LED cathode (short pin/negative/flat side) –IR-LED– IR LED anode — +5v
bc547 pin 3 (emitter) — gnd

————
Placeholder
coming soon: networked remote control code for ethernet/SD header
————

Important notes:
* when sending RC6 IR signals each alternate emulated button press needs ORing with 0×80000 (setting the toggle bit) or the code will be ignored by the receiver.
* Send the signal at least twice with a delay(50); between them to ensure the receiver receives and processes the signal.
* If you transmit a signal and need to receive a signal, reinitialise the receive code every time or the IR receiver will not work (I have been led to believe this by a comment on the arcfn blog)
* In testing, replace the IR LED with a normal LED so you can see if the circuit is transmitting

I have ubuntu linux on my main computer, the other computers in the house are laptops with no serial ports.

You can purchase leads from Garmin themselves or resellers, although they tend to be prohibitively expensive.

I purchased a pfranc lead from http://pfranc.com – a great idea and it saved a lot of money compared to a Garmin lead.

Connecting it to my computer was easy – it just plugs into the serial port.

Getting it to work was anything but easy, but I finally figured out the problem today after months of arguing with my computer, stripping down leads and many sleepless nights.

The problem: Garmin etrex talks to the serial port at 9600 baud.

I tried several times to get the etrex to talk using the terminal command
[code]sudo setserial /dev/ttyS0 baud_base 9600[/code]
But that gave me no joy whatsoever.

The solution, and the reason for this post:
For some reason even though the garmin wants to talk at 9600 baud the serial port needs to be set at 115200 baud using the following command:
[code]sudo setserial /dev/ttyS0 baud_base 115200[/code]

Why I need to set the UART to 115200 baud is beyond me. It makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever. I understand serial ports and have done for many years down to the hardware level.

So, to recap:
[code]sudo setserial /dev/ttyS0 baud_base 115200[/code]

I use qlandkarte GT under ubuntu for all my geocaching needs, it works great with my etrex and it is free and open source.

One day I will write a howto on here for that program as it is a very tidy bit of code when used to its full potential.

I am on linux but I suppose I could put one of my old laptops to good use to review it when the time comes.

Let’s see what the future brings.

Google Kenya http://www.google.co.ke are google. Say no more.

Google Kenya have allegedly been trawling through Mocality’s online database and cold calling the companies on the list claiming to be in partnership with Mocality and offering to sell them a website. Nothing wrong with that so far.

The problems are:
* They are not partnered with Mocality
* They have been recorded stating several mistruths to place Mocality in a negative light:
They claim that Mocality is and has been charging a fee to be included in their online directory which is a blatant falsehood that has not and according to Mocality will not happen in the future.

Google Kenya are due to release a statement shortly.

I will conclude this with my opinion upon seeing their statement as so far I have only one side of a story and to be fair and impartial I need both sides.

Gregory –
Regardless of how the rest of your day goes, here’s something to be happy about — today one of your donated MXs helped to identify a previously unknown email harvester (IP: 82.159.122.38). The harvester was caught a spam trap email address created with your donated MX:
mail4.labby.co.uk

You can find information about your newly identified harvester here:

http://www.projecthoneypot.org/ip_82.159.122.38

Glad to be doing my bit to help cut down the number of spammer IP addresses.

I would consider it a personal favour if you did and typed in the search string “let it snow”

https://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&q=let+it+snow

I love it, and it is the wrong season so we can’t call it an Easter Egg can we?

A quick tip:
When you leave it for a little while the screen frosts up completely. You can write on this frost with your mouse.

Merry Christmas everybody :)

Every so often the G15 LCD starts flickering very fast and the only remedy is to unplug the USB lead from the PC and reconnect it.

I have permanently fixed it using the following method:

Create the file /bin/monitorusb
[code]#!/bin/bash
function strstr() {
echo $1 | grep --quiet "$2"
}

monfile="/var/log/syslog"

tail -f $monfile | while read line; do
if strstr "${line}" "can't reset device,*input0, status -32"; then
sudo /bin/usb_reset
fi
done[/code]
and set it to executable (chmod +x /bin/monitorusb)

Create the file /bin/usb_reset
[code]#!/bin/bash
# This script must be run as root to work. For desktop launcher, use command "gksudo /bin/usb_reset".

# Stop USB
modprobe -r usbhid
wait

# Start USB
modprobe usbhid

exit 0[/code]
and set it to executable (chmod +x /bin/usb_reset)

Add the following to root’s cron (sudo crontab -e)
[code]
@reboot /bin/monitorusb
[/code]

Run the program (press alt-f2, type in monitorusb). It is non-interactive and will happily sit in the background until it is needed, at which point it will silently disable the USB HID (human interface device) subsystem and immediately re-enable it, fixing the problem before you even notice it has happened.

As always, comments are always welcomed :)

Until now it was possible to connect to a server securely to conduct your business without the risk of electronic eavesdropping, but even the most security conscious of us still had to announce to the world where we wished to connect to because DNS queries (the “glue” that holds the internet together and turns (for example) the IP address 72.233.104.125 into hackaday.com – a great site that anyone with an electronics or tinkering mind ought to visit.

Now a hot new piece of software which is available for a number of platforms (linux, windows and mac) and completely open source redresses that balance and offers free secure DNS searches with a world class – and used worldwide – DNS server.

Please allow me to welcome the OpenDNS “DNSCrypt” – a fast and secure DNS service which builds on the strength of OpenDNS itself – a world leader in DNS systems and routinely used by schools, colleges, homes and businesses.

I use DNSCrypt on my linux ubuntu system at home and I would like to tell you a little about my experiences with it.

I am lucky enough to be one of the earliest adopters of this system as I have been a beta tester from the outset. I have in that time had chats to the OpenDNS team to report issues (I only had one which was minor and fixed immediately – the linux `man` page for DNSCrypt was missing) and have monitored it closely.

I already use OpenDNS at home and am a happy customer (in the loosest sense of the word as OpenDNS is free) so I knew what to expect when I ran their DNSCrypt package and was fully prepared to give negative feedback if I found that the software slowed down my DNS requests but I was more than pleasantly surprised to note that the service was indistinguishable from that which I was used to.

Installation was a breeze under ubuntu:
Grab the software from OpenDNS
Install the software
In a terminal run
sudo /usr/local/sbin/dnscrypt-proxy --resolver-address=208.67.220.220 --daemon
Then as root edit your /etc/resolv.conf file and before the first “nameserver” line, add:
nameserver 127.0.0.1
options edns0
Simple, straightforward and takes immediate effect.

I added the first line to my startup options which meant that it was effective as soon as my computer was active.

I am a happy user now and know that no matter how much pressure my government puts on my ISP to blocklist sites I get the freedom to choose where I go on the internet. It is a big world out there and I don’t need my nanny to look after me.

I am off now to visit OpenDNS on facebook because I can go wherever I please now.

Of course, as standard it came sized to fit a bull elephant.

“No problem, two minutes work and I will make it fit” I thought to myself.

“Just look for the arrow, push in the hole there.. where’s the hole?!!” I cried.

After much swearing and unfruitful searches of google I figured out how to do it.

Sheer genius on their part, if it wasn’t for the fact I have a splitting headache I would never have realised how to do it.

And, without further ado, I will explain how to remove the links.

Step 1: Remove the springy pin that connects the strap to one end of the clasp using a paperclip or sharp pointed knife (my choice!) – be careful, it will come out like a missile and is aimed straight at your face.

Step 2: Lay the watch face down on a piece of cloth on a flat surface to protect the crystal (these watches aren’t cheap!)
Step 3: Look at the little arrow next to a round hole with what looks like a little dot in it? There is the key to removing the link.

Take a sharp pointed knife or screwdriver and insert it into the gap behind the dot.

Use the knife to gently push the dot out through the side of the band (it takes a little pressure but not too much).
Step 4: Part of the side of the strap will pop out, use your knife on the right hand side of this (when viewed from above) and it has a little notch, use the notch to slide the piece of metal out completely. Be gentle, it is quite fragile.

Step 5: Slide the link out

Step 6: Repeat steps 3-5 with the link that will attach to the clasp (so you end up with one or more links for safekeeping and one link on the strap ready to attach to the clap)
Step 7: Reconnect the newly shortened strap with the link on the strap
Step 8: Push the clip back into place with gentle pressure (I turned the watch on its side and used the top of my desk to give an even pressure), keep pushing until it is flush with the watch strap.
Step 9: Reinsert the spring clip (you didn’t let it twang across the room did you??) through the link and connect it back to the clasp.
Step 10: Try your watch on and hope that it fits, if not go back to step one. Sorry.
Step 11: If you’re here, all done.. buy me a beer or something!